Apr 11, 2011

Continually Biased… and a giveaway update

header







Okay, I hope you’ve checked out my progressive follower giveaway… it’s open until the 12th April and I’ve just finished making the ribbon flower brooch to add to the winner’s prize for reaching 280 followers.

Here it is:

ribbon brooch

I made this using the technique I detailed in this tutorial but I used a grosgrain ribbon and added a sheer organza ribbon petal behind the grosgrain ribbon petals then mounted the finished flower onto a felt disc and a brooch pin. I love red and blue together and love how this flower turned out… and some lucky person will be taking away this brooch together with the Ribbon and Chain Necklace, a baby/toddler Denim & Lace Flower headband and because I’ve also reached another 10 followers there is another prize I’m adding at the end of this post!

Now onto this post…

Well, I am a little biased… over bias that is! I love making unique bias tape to co-ordinate with other fabrics and a few weeks ago now that led me to my newest ‘toy’… The Simplicity Bias Tape Maker…


simplicity bias tape maker


I first heard about this machine on another blog whilst I was idly hopping about and filling some time a couple of months ago – unfortunately I cannot recall the actual blog but am ever so thankful to them for introducing another gadget to my  must have wish list.


So, finally I now have one! Woo Hoo… and now I’ll show you all how I make my continuous bias using this machine (continuous bias tutorials have been done on many sites before and I certainly didn’t come up with this method of continuous bias but it is my most favourite way to make oodles and oodles of bias without much wastage of fabric and I thought I’d share it with you today and also show off the machine).

Fabric

I used a rectangle of this fabulous Michael Miller ‘Kaleidoscope Stripe’ fabric approximately 15” x 22”.

Always, wash and press your fabric beforehand.

Cut across the length of the rectangle on a 45degree angle as shown below:

45 degree cut

Take the piece on the left hand side and place it on the right hand side as pictured:

left to right

Turn the right hand side over as if flipping a book page so that the right sides of the fabric are facing like shown:


book page

Using a shorter stitch length (I used 1.5) sew a seam as indicated by the red line in the above picture from one asterisk to the other.

sew seam

Press the seam open.

press seam

Mark diagonal lines with disappearing fabric pen as shown above with the dashed lines. The width of the lines will be dependant on the final width you want your tape to be. My single fold bias tape will be 1” wide so I marked along the top and bottom edges every 2  3/4 inches, then joined the corresponding top and bottom marks.

mark guidelines

Now, fold the fabric over like shown below so that the lines you’ve marked sit one over leaving a row at the start and finish not joining up to another row.

matched guidelines

With right sides together sew along the edges you’ve just lined up. When I line them up I match them up just slightly off the lines so that the lines actually cross over each other at the point where the stitches will be. This will create a tube shape.

sew into tube

Press the seam open and now you’re ready to start cutting the continuous strip…

cut strips
...and yes these scissors are in desparate need of a clean - and a sharpen for that matter!

And cutting… and cutting…

cut cut cut

I did see a blog where they used a rotary cutter to cut the strips but I don’t think I’m quite that co-ordinated and I would just end up cutting through other layers – it really doesn’t take that long to cut once you get going!

Now, the fun part… the bias tape machine!

bias machine

So simple to use… it has a heat setting much like an iron, simply turn it on and begin getting ready whilst the plates heat up.

simplicity bias tape maker spool

Wind your continuous strip onto the provided spool…

bias tip

Place the spool onto the holder, over the guide arm and feed the end through the bias tip. All different size tips can be bought for the machine… I tend to use the 1” and 1/2” tips the most.

simplicity bias tape maker iron plate

The heat plate easily locks and unlocks and has an auto roller to the left of it to feed and pull the fabric from the tip, across the plate and out the other side.

simplicity bias tape maker 1

Take the fabric from the tip across the heat plates, far enough over to have the roller ‘grip’ the strip. Once the green light is lit the machine is ready to go…

Hit the ‘run’ button and sit back and admire the machine do all the work for you – whilst not getting your fingers anywhere near an iron steam jet, any risk of burns or fiddling around with manual bias tips etc. This little gem can press 12 feet of bias in 60 seconds… LOVE IT!!!

double fold bias tape

Now, because I’m a little lazy – and this machine seems to do just as good a job as I would with an iron, I then attach the 1/2” tip, rewind the single fold bias onto the spool…

half inch double fold

…and feed it through the top of the tip and let the machine press my single fold into double fold just as quickly!

And the result…

lovely bias

Lots of lovely double fold bias tape – I just love how vertical striped fabric look on the bias… from my original rectangle of fabric this yielded just over 5 1/2 yards of bias tape… and the REALLY good news?

finished continuous bias

This gorgeous bundle of bias tape has just been added to the winners prize for my follower giveaway! So, if you haven’t entered… why not? You’ve just over a day or so left to enter and the current follower situation is 292 followers… if it reaches 300 before competition end ANOTHER prize will be added! Presently the odds are pretty good with relatively low entries – so head over, check it out, follow along and leave me a comment – I love reading them!

Oh, and for any fellow Australian's wondering where you can get such a machine (I know I asked at all the major retailers... Spotlight, Lincraft etc... and no one knew what I was talking about! I've found you can purchase this fantastic machine and all the different tips, extra spools etc at this fab store - Stitch This  (they do online sales and can post...) tell them The Quick Unpick sent you (for no other reason than it's sometimes nice to know how your customers heard about you!)

Cheers xo

Linking up with the fab party over at:
Tip Junkie handmade projects

Apr 7, 2011

A tiered ruffle refashion…


I'm not sure if ruffles are still the 'in' thing for us big girls but I know that ruffles NEVER go out of fashion for little girls. They are just so perfect for little princesses who love all things girly (and my little ones are no exception)!


This is my latest refashion... a large "Country Road" branded tiered ruffle top:





It was a $2.00 thrift shop find that really didn't suit me but was perfect for refashioning into a gorgeous ruffled size 3T girls dress... here's a peek at the finished dress:


And now here's how to achieve it with a similar top if you like!

MATERIALS:


1 large tiered ruffle top ($2.00)
contrasting/matching ribbon ($2.00 a roll)
1 dress zipper (.99c)
button for covering
Usual notions - thread scissors etc

(optional headband - band, ribbon and button for covering)


HOW TO:


Big Little Miss M really was TRYING to look happy (it doesn't help that I had the
camera setting wrong and she looks all pasty!)
but trying on the before would have to be her least favourite part
of my refashioning escapades!!!

Determine how much size you will need to take off each side - either by having your little one try it on and then marking/pinning or by using an existing garment in the size you want.


Cut the top - be sure to cut the ruffles separate to the tiers as the tiers should be cut straight whilst the ruffles will be on an outward angle to follow the grain/print. I found it easier to mark my cutting lines with disappearing fabric pen as a guide.


 *I cut the back of the top with an extra 1/2" allowance on the sides to account for the zipper which I was going to put in the back.


Leave the shoulders in tact, flip top inside out and unpick about 1/4" from the side edge of each ruffle and sew each front ruffle to the corresponding back ruffle with right sides together - do not sew the under tiers at this point.


I then cut two lengths of ribbon to create ties for the back waist of the dress. Insert the ribbon between the front and back layers when they are right sides together as shown.


Pin and sew the side seams from armpit to hem catching only the top 1/4" of each ruffle and then pulling it to the inside of the garment. This is so that the ruffles remain free from the side seams except at the very top where they attach to the under tier (hmmm... I hope that makes sense - feel free to email me with any Q's).



I used a 7" dress zipper... I marked the centre back of the garment with disappearing ink to indicate zipper placement.


Cut the opening straight down the centre and then unpicked about 1/4" of top seam to allow me to fold the lining and the outer fabric in and under.


Press and then sandwich the zipper in between the two layers. I then pinned the zipper and used a tacking stitch to hold the zip in place.


To tack, I removed the presser foot and lowered the presser foot arm directly onto the centre of the zip.


I set the stitch to the widest possible zigzag - needs to be wider than the zip teeth to catch the fabric either side -  and reduced the stitch length to the shortest possible and every inch and a half or so tacked down the zipper so that I could remove the pins and use a zipper foot to sew the zip in place.


Use excess tiers and ruffles from one side  - which will have a nice curved upper hem that was originally from the lower portion of the arm cycle to create a ruffled kind of bib front to bring in and reduce the original neck opening (There is a seam running down the centre of this panel however the print and slightly crinkled fabric hides the seam well - if you cannot use the excess fabric because there is not enough or the seam is too obvious you could use a contrasting fabric to make a couple of rows of short ruffles)..

I reduced each under tier on the excess portion by half so that the three new 'bib' type ruffles were closer spaced and used a rolled hem on the ruffle edges.



Pin wrong sides of extra piece one side of the original neckline - again ensuring the ruffle tiers are not sewn with this seam but pulled aside so that they will hang freely and then repeat with the other side.


I then topstiched around the added piece to keep neaten and help hold the seams to the inside.


Then to add a little embellishment and use up some of my ribbon stash (remember the post about all that ribbon - well I did say I'd try and use up some of my 'bargain' ribbon buys) so, a ribbon flower it was!

TO MAKE FLOWER:


Cut approx 13 pieces of ribbon - I cut mine about 1 1/2" long but it depends how big or small a flower you want, same with the amount of petals.


Cut each into a long petal shape.


Use a flame to gently melt and seal all edges of each petal - only enough to melt it as if it's too melted it will crack and break when you bend them.


Fold the base of each petal as shown and thread onto cotton.


After threading all the petals go through the first petal again and pull tightly so all petals are bunched together and tie off in a knot.


Cover a button with an offcut of fabric and push button shank into centre of petals. Fan petals out and sew button to the dress - I also sewed in a circular pattern around the button just catching each petal in the fold to secure it better.



Woo Hoo... Just in time for a victory dance ♪♫♪



I also made a headband with a matching flower and excess fabric....








And after a few more random shots of the girls it was time for some yummy home baked cookies...





I love comments and I'd love to know what you think (oh and I really love new followers... be sure to say hi if you're new and let me now how you found The Quick Unpick). You can find other tutorials under the tutorials tab at the top of the page - I'd love it if you had the time to stick around and have a relax and a read... and why not enter my follower giveaway while you're here!

Cheers and I hope you'll come back soon!



Will be linking (and progressively adding to this list) at these fab linky parties:
Jembellish - A round tuit
I ♥heart♥ naptime
Simple Home Life
Paisly Passions
Tea Rose Home
Sugar and Dots
Its Fun to Craft
Its a Hodgepodge Life
Chic on a Shoestring
Under the Table and Dreaming
Funky Junk Interiors
Sew Chatty
Craftomania
The Girl Creative
Crafts Keep me Sane
Craftaholics Anonymous
Sew Happy Geek

Apr 4, 2011

Pattern Drafting… the smart way

maria martin pattern drafting
A few days ago I attended a pattern drafting workshop… and it absolutely blew me away! It’s a relatively new pattern drafting method and ruler that is so amazingly simple to use it’s genius…although it’s clear that a whole lot of hard work has been done in the development of such a system.

It’s called the Maria Martin Designs Pattern Drafter. The lovely Maria ran the workshop and announced in her opening introduction to us all that in the space of a mere few hours we would draw up a pattern block for a dress, trousers, sleeves and a collar using our own measurements… and then actually sew up a calico of the dress block to do a fashion parade of sorts. I was sceptical, this sounded like a lot to fit into the day.

front and back dress block

Well, we all did it and easily too! Maria, using her prior years of experience as a seamstress, dressmaker and sewing teacher has developed an all in one ruler that enables you to easily and quickly convert just a few basic measurements into an accurate pattern block minus the math, stress and frustration that seemed for me to go almost hand in hand with drafting a pattern from scratch.

Maria’s done all the hard yards and converted all the right equations, grading's and done all the research to come up with a product that I honestly think is going to be HUGE in the sewing world – for professional and home sewer alike!

pant block pattern

If it hasn’t become apparent, I am just in awe of this dress making tool – if it doesn’t take the sewing world by storm then the sewing world is missing out! It is so simple to use and straight forward that even a beginner can produce fantastic results… our class consisted of women ranging in sewing ability from a beginner who hadn’t used her new sewing machine yet to some women who had been sewing clothing for decades – but we all found the pattern drafter able to easily produce a well fitted calico in quick time for yourself or others… it can produce block patterns for sizes 8 to size 30 Australian, 2 to 24 American, 34 to 56 European… AND for those not in Australia or on the metric scale Maria’s system is available for purchase online and soon will be marketed in America… AND she is working on a pattern drafter for children sizes – you can bet I want to be first in line for that one!

Anyway, enough gushing – you really should check it out for yourself and unleash your inner designer. Here’s a short video of Maria demonstrating The Pattern Drafter….
 
Maria Martin Designs Pattern Drafter
 
or Click HERE to visit her website and find out a little more about the next big thing!


You may think the system is a bit expensive for $385 but you will be converted if you give it a chance and weigh up the comparisons of other systems, rulers and also just from the time saving aspect alone.

So, here’s a pic of a dress shape that I want to use as inspiration using my new block pattern… I like the neckline – but perhaps not so plunging, I love the belted waist and the below knee length… I am not really a dress kind of girl of late but I think that this pattern drafting system just may have the potential to change that because mostly I don’t wear dresses as I just don’t like how they look on – my post children body is just not a standard size (what is a standard size these days anyway, hey?)

a little inspiration

I’ll be sure to show it off here when it’s done too!

Now, as for tutorials… here’s the before of my next project:
country road top

Its a large Country Road tiered ruffle top – another thrift shop find… was going to keep this for myself but really, ruffles on a larger frame, especially over my middle section really does not do me any favours so it’s going under the (knife) scissors… the top that is!!!

And don’t forget to enter my FOLLOWER GIVEAWAY… currently at 277 followers – another 3 and for every ten after that there is another prize being added for the winner, so jump on board, follow me around and let me know you stopped by!

Cheers xo

Oh... and just so you know - I'm not getting any benefit or inducement for sharing with you my opinions on Maria's Pattern Drafter... I am sharing my opinion with you all because I honestly was so impressed with the workshop and the drafting ruler AND because I'll be using it to do some adult tutorials for clothing (might be a nice change now and then from the toddler/girls clothing tutes, what do you think?)
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...